Ready. Set. Go. This was day two of our Istanbul Eats experience. Our party was reduced to two—Sophia and myself. We joined the three Cookistan ladies on a morning tour of the Pangalti neighborhood and afternoon cooking class in their house.
Considering how much I adore food and cooking, I haven’t taken many cooking classes. It’s not that I don’t like them, I do. For some reason I’ve chosen to learn about food by surreptitiously watching other people do their magic (an osmosis of sorts) and by pouring through endless cookbooks; this has given me the base to soak up the language of different cuisines. The Cookistan experience reminded me that there are benefits from following someone else's direction. It adds a whole other layer, especially when the teachers are as knowledgeable and relaxed as these women.
Gonci found a fast friend in Sophia. They clasped hands and I disappeared into the background. It was so cool to watch Sophia from a distance.
Gonci our bubbly leader corralled the group in and out of various vendors’ shops and stalls, stopping along the way to introduce us to the characters, taste foods and view the bountiful Istanbul food culture. The Pangalti neighborhood is a fascinating microcosm in itself as it is home to many minority cultures. This means you can find almost all variations and influences found in Turkish cuisine. Each and every vendor stopped to give the customary squidge to Sophia. Their eyes grew wide when they saw an enthusiastic little nymph checking out their wares.
Cow hearts are enormous! Sophia couldn't believe people eat these.
Yup. That's some serious offal. The Turks enjoy a bit of brain and osso bucco along with their sheep's head.
Borek house--the breakfast of champions.
Artichoke season is upon us everywhere. We though we had our fill in California and here they are again in Turkey. Yum.
Sophia is trying to impress Gonci with her veggie prowess.
Gonci brought us to where ladies made billions of bread balls.
Wait...is Gonci putting Sophia in an oven?!
Tea time and the ladies pull out something sweet for Sophia. Little do they know she prefers the salty olives (like her Aunty Muffin).
After our shop, we sat and drank our tea. There was obviously no rush to get down to business, for we needed to connect before we chopped. The women shared their food values with gusto over a cuppa sweet Turkish brew. To them, the strongest tenant of Turkish food was the act of gathering around food together. Cooking and mealtimes (all done with care and a powerful pizazz) meant a closer connection to their relationships with people. They scoffed at the idea of supermarkets. These faceless institutions were nothing in comparison to the accountable ties one had with each vendor that sold them their daily nutrition. Yes – they shopped daily for everything! Apparently, this rhythm has been the same for hundreds of years. Many Turks shop loyally for generations. And some have been going to the same meat, dairy, produce shop their great, great grandparents went to. Our hosts declared this routine translated to real quality. The shopkeeper knows everyone’s preferences and habits. They're expected to provide the best product to ensure a lifelong relationship. How simple, yet remarkable.
Aysun and Aysin, the two ‘Cookistan’ sisters chose 6 dishes for the group to prepare. Each one represented a region in Turkey. Aysun led our group in the cooking. Aysin managed the behind-the-scenes prep (making the transitions seamless). And Gonci filled any language gaps and fell Turkish-ly in love with Sophia.
We all had our own stations, including Sophia.
Our menu for the afternoon. I was amazed we were to attack this giant list in just a few hours.
Suleymaniye Soup – apparently Sultan Suleman’s favourite soup. This was a rich lentil and veggie soup with mini meatballs. A meal in itself and a family staple in most Istanbul homes. I've never seen Sophia so eager to eat lentils.
Boureka – a thin (phyllo-type) dough rolled with mincemeat and onion mixture. The dough and meat was rolled into a cigar-like shape, brushed with egg yolk and baked in the oven. Then topped with plain yogurt and paprika sauce. HEAVEN!!!!
Stuffed Dried Eggplants & Peppers – re-hydrated peppers and eggplants were stuffed with a mince meat, rice, spice mixture and braised on low with the cover on. The veggie juices made a delicious gravy which we spooned on top of the baked vegetables.
Bulgar Salad – this is the grain of choice in Turkey. The bulgur was steamed and then mixed with fresh mint, parsley, green onions, tomato paste, chili powder, paprika, cumin, dried mint, pomegranate molasses and chopped tomatoes. It was like a kicked up tabbouleh.
Circassian Chicken – poached, then shredded chicken and tossed in a light yogurt, garlic, cumin, paprika and walnut sauce. This could be served as a chicken salad or eaten on a crunchy bit of lettuce like a sandwich.
Pumpkin dessert – dense, orange pumpkin cooked with cloves, heaps of sugar and vanilla powder until it was soft and syrupy. We topped it with chopped walnuts and tahini paste.
Her hands were made to shape bourekas.
Pinching just the right about of spice into her vegetable filling. It's so easy she said!
Tossing salads with your hands is messy business; the kind of messy business that five year old girls live for!
So proud of her accomplishments.
Something happens when the hot pastry hits the cold yogurt. The luxurious contrast is sublime.
Here's Sophia with the team. She stole the show. When I saw her follow along with the class and do EVERTHING the grown ups were doing, at the same pace my eyes teared up (soppy I know). She was determined to be independent and contribute to both the cooking and conversation. When we skipped out of the class later that afternoon I swear she walked differently. In one day my little girl had grown up immensely. Is that possible?
Sophia and I returned home with a giant doggie bag of leftovers to share with the boys. She pulled each package out and recounted the ingredients and method and implored them to try everything. This girl loves her food.